The Baltic Lane Guide

Gastronomic creations straight from the forest. Industrial complexes renovated into art expos and tech offices. Medieval streets that open up to baroque palaces. Pine forests that border sand dunes.

The Baltics pack a punch, leaving even the most traveled awestruck. The countries’ rich culture, connection to nature, and tumultuous history have left an indelible mark on the people. The imprints of the region’s former occupants - Danish, Swedish, Polish, German, Russian and Soviet - mix with the Baltics’ own distinct languages and customs.

The region’s variety lends itself well to an old-school road trip. That’s why we’ve included spots slightly off the beaten path that you won’t see anywhere else in the world.

We recommend starting at either end of the guide (Vilnius, Lithuania or Tallinn, Estonia).

Located in Cathedral Square between the cathedral and bell tower, the Miracle Tile puts you in the heart of Vilnius. Stand on the tile. Spin 5 times clockwise. Then throw your hands up above your head. Make a wish.  

This tile marks the end of the longest human chain to date: starting in Estonia, crossing Latvia and ending where the Miracle Tile rests today in Lithuania. The Balts took to the streets and held hands in 1989 to show the world their protest of the Soviet occupation and demand basic human rights. The Baltic states were occupied by the Soviet Union for about 50 years and were the first countries to gain independence in 1991.

Look behind the cathedral for the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania, which bore witness to a tragic love affair between the Grand Duchess of Lithuania and the King of Poland. Look beyond the palace to see Gediminas Tower.

Detour: Take Pilies Street to discover Old Town and continue to the Gate of Dawn and Black Madonna, or cross the Vilnia River to enter the bohemian micro-nation “Republic of Uzupis,” which declared independence in 1997. Yes, that means Uzupis has its own anthem, army and constitution. Its articles range from “A dog has the right to be a dog” to “Man has the right to individuality.” Besides wielding a sense of humor, Uzupis also has a worthy selection of farm-to-table restaurants.

This looming stone castle surrounded by water memorializes the epic rise and fall of Europe’s largest empire at its time. Trakai functioned as the capital of The Grand Duchy of Lithuania, which was Europe’s biggest state in the 15th century.

Trakai Island Castle serves as a romantic reminder of the medieval past, shrouded in a mystery of political intrigue, love affairs, and epic battles. It’s a 30-minute drive from Vilnius, making it an accessible and memorable mid-day destination.

There are many ways to enjoy the castle. Our favorite view is from the lake - available rentals range from kayaks to yachts. Be sure to snag a few kibinas from one of the surrounding Karaim cafes before you leave.

Stay the night in Trakai or Vilnius.

There’s nothing quite like it: folk-art wonder + pilgrimage site + mediation spot + symbol of resilience and pacifist activism. Legends and accounts of miracles surround the Hill of Crosses, a site to which people of all faiths travel to leave a cross. There are more than 100,000 crosses there today.

The Hill’s story began in the 19th century when Tsarist Russia occupied Lithuania and issued a ban on crosses. The Hill, however, became more populated with crosses than ever before. During the Soviet Union’s occupation of Lithuania the following century, Soviet tanks bulldozed down the Hill. Still people risked their lives to put up crosses under the cover of night. Soviet officials dismantled the Hill four more times, burning the wooden crosses and melting the metal ones. Each time the rising sun revealed even more crosses the following morning.

Art and nature meet in this aristocratic splendor. Where else can you find a ballroom that features a real stork’s nest? Built by the Empress of Russia for her lover, the palace’s most imposing room is his bedroom where he held official government meetings. The palace’s architect Fransco Bartolomeo Rastrelli was also the mastermind behind the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg, Russia. The palace’s baroque and rococo style extends into a beautiful French rose garden, attracting not only tourists but also film crews.

Enjoy a picnic in the park or a coffee within the gardens. There’s free parking and you’re now only about an hour from Riga.

Detour: Look out for the Garden Festival on the palace grounds in the summer and consider a detour to Jurmala for beautiful views of the country and seaside. If you have an appetite for the eerie, the Floating Forts in Liepaja (officially called Liepaja Northern Forts) or the abandoned city of Skrunda–1 are haunting reminders of the country’s Soviet past.

Stay the night in Riga.

A Neoclassical warehouse serves as Europe’s largest market bazaar in abandoned zeppelin pavilions (see the 4 warehouse in the foreground of the image above). The German airships were in vogue at the start of the 20th century, and Riga set up five massive hangars for their storage. When the Zeppelin craze didn’t take flight, the hangars transformed into a space for over 3,000 stands constituting a vibrant market overlooking the water.  You’ll encounter locals shopping for groceries, a testament to the market’s enduring bargains. We snoop around for honeycomb, dried mushrooms, strange herbs and one-off treasures.

Detour: Walk by the House of Blackheads, a magnificent bachelor pad that housed wealthy unmarried merchants and was the most prestigious (and debaucherous) place in Riga in its time. Architecture fans will also enjoy the oldest medieval houses in Riga called the Three Brothers and the concentrated 20th century Art Nouveau buildings on Albert Street. If you prefer some structure, free walking tours are offered daily at 11am and 12 pm

Aim to leave Riga in the early afternoon to make it to Harju County, Estonia an hour before sunset.

Once a Soviet prison, now one of the world’s most striking beach destinations. The crystal blue water and looming ashy white cliffs mark the site of a limestone quarry where the Soviets used the prison’s inhabitants for back-breaking forced labor starting in the 1940s. Operations were abandoned with the fall of the Soviet Union, leaving the area to flood. Once labeled Europe’s Alcatraz, the 75 ft prison is now halfway submerged – along with mining equipment, pots and pans, neighboring buildings and a forest. The underwater prison attracts a range of both locals and visitors - from thrill-seeking divers to music video producers. We believe the above-water views are plenty to take in as taking the dive can be dangerous.

Detour: Consider driving to Saaremaa Island, the largest island in Estonia. The mysterious and ancient Kaali meteorite crater fields can be found near the island’s capital Kuressaare. This crater is famous for being the newest one (about 7,500 years ago) to fall in a populated area. The Kuressaare Castle is also worth a stroll. Believed to have been built by the Teutonic Order in the 1200s, this medieval castle is the Baltic region’s sole medieval fortress that is totally intact today. It’s a holding point of history as the country was taken over by the Danish, Swedish and Russian.

Stay the night in Tallinn.

Toompea Castle holds stories of its varied rulers and their struggle for power. Climb up the spiraling stairs for panoramic views of the city and harbor. (Note: The tower can get crowded between 10am-3pm when the cruises bring over tourists.)

Detour: Walk around old town, exploring the winding streets like St. Catherine’s Passage. Near old town you can find the Telliskivi Creative City, an industrial complex turned cultural hub with a slew of pop up shops, craft beer and NGO offices. The thriving Kalamaja neighborhood is another nearby choice for flea markets, graffiti and art exhibitions in the city’s main fishing harbor that’s become a bohemian oasis.

Detour: Consider a detour to Helsinki, Finland via the ferry. The trip only takes about 2 – 3.5 hours and one-way tickets start at 19 euros.  You might even catch a performance, as we did, by the Finnish Justin Beiber. If you have more time on your hands, you can cruise to Stockholm, Sweden or St. Petersburg, Russia (72-hour visa free, if you read the fine print).